The story of Christmas in the Philippines began centuries ago, when Spanish conquistadors landed on our shores in 1521. soon enough, the friars who came with them, full of missionary zeal, christianized the natives. But it was only in 1525, during the rule of conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi that the Feast of the Nativity was officially celebrated. A historical account narrates that, sometime in the early 14th century, the Franciscan priest Odoric from Italy celebrated the first Christmas Mass along the shores of Lingayen, Pangasinan. The feast of Christmas was easily assimilated by the newly-converted natives, as the yuletide season coincided with their annual harvest time when thanksgiving was offered to their gods and ancestors. The result was a melding of Catholic beliefs with indigenous rituals.
Today, as Paskong Pinoy tradition has it, Christmas is in the air the minute the first “ber” month (September) arrives. Displays of Christmas Cards, tree ornaments, and lights suddenly spring up in retail outlets in record bars, shopping malls, restaurants, and even jeepneys careening along the streets. Christmas bazaars offering every kind of merchandise imaginable become standard weekend destinations. This goes on, with increasing fervor and insistence, through October and November.
Only then does the Church-prescribed Christmas liturgical season begin. It lasts 22 days, beginning on December 16 with the first dawn Mass – also called Simbang Gabi – and ending of the “Feast of the Three Kings” in January.
Within this month-long period, the Filipino penchant for fiesta comes to the fore. Rural barrios come alive with processions and parades, perfect excuses for decking the whole town in lights and Christmas trimming, and dressing up in one’s finery. One favorite procession, called the Panunuluyan, reenacts the search of Mary and Joseph for lodging in Bethlehem. This, like most Philippine folk traditions, thinks nothing of combining the religious with the patriotic, and exercising poetic license with Biblical stories and characters for the mere spectacle and enjoyment of it.
On Christmas Eve, everyone awaits the midnight Misa de Aguinaldo (“Gift Mass”) followed by the most important repast of the year, the Noche Buena. At this feast, family members savor yuletide favorites like hamon (ham), queso de bola (ripened ball cheese), relleno (stuffed chicken), castañas (roasted chestnuts), fruitcake, and fresh fruits. On this night, the Andalucian couplet holds true, “Esta noche es noche Buena, y no es noche para dormir.” (“This night is a good night, and not a night for sleeping.”)
December 25th is also known as Pasko ng Mga Bata (“Children’s Christmas”) for obvious reasons. It is also the day the little ones visit their godparents (Ninong and Ninang) and kiss the back of their hands in greeting, expecting gifts and other treats in return.
It is only when the Lenten season begins in march that the Filipino finally tucks Christmas away. To storage boxes at last go the wreaths, the angels, and the lights. But the memory of Christmas – the family togetherness, the feasting, the gift-giving, the birth of the Christ Child that gives it all meaning – lingers until (you guessed it!) It’s time for Paskong Pinoy all over again.
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